Some members may be strong in some areas & weak in others. We look at all of the factors & weigh them accordingly. Not meeting every criterion does not necessarily disqualify someone for a loan. By the same token, being strong in many areas may not necessarily qualify someone for a certain type of loan request.

New & Used Vehicle Loans:
We offer very competitive rates on both new & used vehicles, with terms up to 72 months. Let us help you in your purchase of your next vehicle. The better your credit & higher the down payment, the lower your credit interest rate will be. Under certain circumstances, rates can be as low as 4.5% APR.

ATV/Motorcycle Loans:
Looking for some winter or summer fun? Let us help. We can even finance motor homes for as long as 120 months.

Mortgage & Real Estate Loans:
We offer many types of real estate loans, including home equity lines of credit (the balance is revolving & can be used over & over again), home equity loans, as well as mortgage loans for the purchase or refinance of personal, & investment properties. We will even finance land or developed lots. We have many options, even for commercial property. Fees and certain restrictions do apply. If you have a question, please do not assume we will or will not finance a particular type of real estate loan. Give us a call and we can discuss it.

Share Secured loan:
You pledge the shares and we make the loan secured by your shares at 2.5% above whatever you are earning on the share account.

Signature/Unsecured loans:
With a strong enough credit score and stable employment, we can grant an unsecured loan up to $6,500. Because of the economy and a recent trend of bankruptcies, we have had to raise the bar, so to speak, on unsecured loans. We still offer them, but we prefer to make loans secured with even an older vehicle or other collateral.

Credit Builder/Credit Repair Loans:
We make loans to help you build your credit or repair damaged credit. We loan you the money but stick it into a share account. You make monthly payments out of pocket. After a year’s period, you have a good-reporting account to the credit bureau, as well as a savings account with a balance in it that is yours to keep. What a fantastic way to build your credit and save money at the same time.

1. If you are trading in your old car don’t expect to get “high book” for it. If a dealer offers you high book for your trade, you can bet the extra money has been added to the price of the car you are buying.

2. Don’t forget that the amount you agree to pay for a car is not the total amount you need. You have to add 6.25% (or more, depending on local tax rates) for sales tax. Property tax is another added expense. The amount is based on the year of the car you are buying: the newer the car, the more the property tax you will pay. Property tax on new cars is $150.00. If you are buying a car from a dealer, you will have to add dealer fees (generally known as “doc fees”). These can range from $50 to $400. Each dealer is required to disclose the amount charged on a sign posted in his office. Look for it. It’s usually on the wall behind the potted plant. If one dealer wants $100 less than another dealer for the same car, watch out for a higher doc fee.

3. A dealer makes money by selling a car at a profit. This is known as “front end” profit. A dealer also makes money by selling things after the sale of the car; things such as financing, paint sealant, disability insurance, extended warranties, GAP Insurance, etc. This is known as “back end” profit. GAP insurance, disability insurance, and credit life insurance are available through the Credit Union as well as financing.

4. If you are buying a car from a private party, make sure you know where the title is. If the seller has a loan on the car, you will need to find out the name of the bank or credit union that has the title, the amount of the loan payoff. Don’t forget that the state will still get 6.25% of what you pay for the car in sales tax. This is collected at the time you register your car. Be sure to factor that into your decision and your loan request.

5. When a new car dealer is offering an unbelievably low financing rate, there is usually a rebate associated with the low rate. You can have the low rate or you can have the rebate, but not both. Find out what the rebate option is. It could be to your advantage to take the rebate and finance the lower cost of the car at the credit union. This is especially true if you are in the habit of paying your loans off early or trading your car in before the loan is paid off. If you take the low dealer financing rate and forgo the rebate, then pay the loan off early, you have forfeited part of your “discount”. By taking the rebate, you get the entire discount up front.

6. If a used car is selling for significantly below book there is usually a reason. One of the most common reasons is a salvage title. You have the right to ask the seller if the title is “branded”. If you have an opportunity to see the title, look for the words “Rebuilt/Restored” printed on the face of the title. This usually means the car has been wrecked or stolen, then rebuilt and sold. This is quite common in Utah now because our laws are more lenient than those of other states. Several businesses in Utah specialize in buying totaled cars from other states to rebuild and sell in Utah. A “branded” title does not necessarily mean a bad car, but don’t plan on it holding its value. You can investigate the vehicle’s history on the internet at www.carfax.com. The credit union has a Carfax account if you wish to have us look up the vehicle history. We do not mark up the fee charged to us by Carfax.

7. When looking at a car that you are interested in, jot down the entire VIN number (usually located on the dashboard, visible thru the windshield on the driver’s side). Then call a loan officer at the Credit Union and let us look up the NADA book value for you. We are happy to help.

Car buying can be a pain, but when armed with the right information it can actually be fun! Happy Hunting!

As a member of our credit union, you should know that we will never ask for your personal information by email or text messaging. NEVER give information that is private and confidential over your cell phone’s text feature, and don’t call the 800 number that spam text messages ask you to call. Here are other steps you can take to ensure that you don’t become an identity thief’s next victim:

• Be careful when asked for your telephone number. Giving your phone number in response to contests or online promotions can lead to unwanted calls and messages.
• Never respond to unsolicited text messages – it only lets the sender know they’ve reached a working number and may lead to more messages in the future.
• Consider blocking all text message services for your phone. While this may be somewhat inconvenient if you like texting your friends, it will protect you from this growing form of identity theft.
• Be cautious about the services you subscribe to.
• Be wary of urgent messages that request personal information.
• Report any messages that seem ‘too good to be true’ or advertise illegal items to your local consumer protection agency.

Many unsolicited electronic ads and scams originate overseas, often making it extremely difficult to track the individuals who are responsible. Take initiative and protect yourself by never responding to spam text messages.